South Africa’s New Divide

In late January, I was asked by my picture editor to put some thought into a feature idea that she had, regarding the current state of South Africa for the young black population. At this stage, it was entirely open to go in whichever direction made sense and I was gifted with free reign to see which way the research led me.

Being a bit of an obsessive planner, this led to months of research, planning, head-scratching and general confusion as I tried to narrow down a generation's status into a series of images that could be achieved over a week or so. Every idea created new avenues and just as I thought I was getting on top of it, someone would suggest a different direction or concept that I hadn't even looked at. Basically, it was becoming larger than I could afford it to be so I decided to get ruthless and cut it down to something that was both possible, and gave the viewer that "snapshot" of where the "Born Free" generation currently is, at least through the eyes of an outsider.

On landing, I headed straight out for a scout around Johannesburg. Finding myself in an independent store and restaurant area called "44 Stanley", I stumbled across the JoziHub "co-creation" centre, where young people get the chance to work, network and find their feet as they launch their start-up businesses onto the market. Companies such as online grocery delivery start-up eButler and the Conte Creatives advertising agency work side-by-side to try to crack the market and become the next big thing.

Getting the first images from any assignment always provides a huge relief so it was great to wander out of this hive of activity and bump straight into a fashionable young woman as she got into her shining white BMW. One of the few good things that has come out of social media is that those who do it are ready, willing and able at the drop of a hat to pose up for pictures like it's an organised shoot for Vogue. The woman in question turned out to be a fashion designer with an Instagram following of over 97k and after a series of posed up shots, I finally got something a little more genuine as she greeted a friend who saw her in the street.

As would prove to be the running theme of this assignment, my next stop began to clearly show that while there are opportunities in South Africa, the divides that exist are no longer about the colour of your skin, but how much money there is in your pocket. That lack of funds certainly doesn't stop everyone though.

Lethabo Mokoena is an inspiring man. Living in the poor township of Daveyton, he started up his company "Walk Fresh" in early 2015 to provide a sneaker cleaning service to those in the area who wanted to look their best. Now, the company is doing so well that they're moving from the rented front yard and a temporary gazebo, to permanent premises in a converted shipping container nearby. Showing me his current storeroom, shelves and surfaces in every direction were filled with neatly packaged, freshly cleaned trainers, ready to deliver back to their owners.

Beyond this success story, Lethabo went on to explain his plans for business development. These include extra space that he will make available to others in the community who have dreams of starting their own company, a workshop area that he will hire out to local businesses and even an area for talks and inspirational presentations. All of this from a single shipping container in the front yard of a tin-roofed home in a poor neighbourhood. It wouldn't have surprised me at all if he'd talked of his dream to escape and move on, but instead he spoke of helping his community to thrive, develop and prosper. His next plan involves saving up the £2000 to buy solar panels to allow people to work and access the internet from this new business oasis in the centre of Daveyton. A genuinely inspirational chap.

Like a pendulum's swing, the next location would take me to a roof-top party in the hip Braamfontein area of Jozi.

Due to a healthy dose of research, effort and dumb luck, I'd already been put in touch with one of the most helpful, friendly and accommodating people I could have hoped to meet. Currently working as a DJ on the youth radio station YFM; "Da Kruk", or "Kuxx" as he introduces himself, is most definitely the man when it comes to seeing the sights and sounds of Johannesburg. My night was planned out for me with a party of the social elite overlooking the city, then onto something a little more down to earth.

To announce a series of concerts by American music artists later in the year, a drinks company held a party near the Neighbourgoods building. Hosted by the TV presenter and rapper Numuzi Mabena (AKA Moozlie), the drinks flowed as the moment of the announcement approached. I was left feeling very out of touch indeed when they finally did say the names and I still had no idea who they were. Still, everyone else seemed happy enough. On a side note, the weird thing about working in a different country is that you have no idea who is "important" so you treat everyone the same. It's only when you look someone up afterwards for caption information and find that they're a national TV celebrity with nearly 500k Instagram followers that you realise who you were chatting to. As it happens, that total ignorance works in your favour as you are prepared to just shoot without worrying about who you should or shouldn't approach.

With the shiny side of socialising captured, we then headed to a rather more secretive venue for a party and gig by rapper Okmalumkoolkat. Following a map on an email, we finally reached the destination and had a top night, away from the gloss of the branded promotional party.

The next morning, I made my way to the Turffontein racecourse to see if it could make a picture or two. Located in the heart of a run down area, I had a number of warnings from concerned racegoers about leaving the venue safely, although one suggested I should go via his casino first. So thoughtful.

As the final race approached, I'd got a few pictures to add to the set but was missing that "special" moment that would make the day worthwhile. With the race moments away, a group of incredibly well-dressed women approached me and asked if I could take their picture. Having spent the last four hours searching for someone like this, fate was clearly on my side! I photographed each of them individually as the sun set and then just managed to scoot around in time for them to watch the main race of the day. With exactly the right amount of leaping and cheering that any photographer could hope for, it was only after getting the shots that they told me that my only bet of the day had come in first place. Someone was looking out for me that day!

The following day, I met up with Kuxx and his good friend Mlu and hit the city once again. Pinned to the back seat of his AMG as we tore across the city, we ended up at the Fourways farmer's market, a perfect example of how the black middle class has settled into the comfort of a champagne picnic lifestyle. Located near to a massive casino complex, musicians played from the stage as people browsed the organic produce and drank cocktails from jam jars.

As a massive juxtaposition to this, we then headed into the Orlando section of Soweto to check out the car-wash culture. While the wealthy drank Pimms and sat on hay bales in Fourways, the residents of Orlando gather on Sunday to get their pride and joy valeted as they enjoy barbecued food from the Moja cafe. Status is clearly a hugely important thing here as expensive imported German cars are lined up to receive some TLC next to the tin-roofed homes of the township.

Next up, and it was back into the centre of Johannesburg for a party to celebrate the anniversary of a famous model of sports trainer. While the event didn't make many images, it was certainly eye-opening to see the queue of people who were lining up to get free permanent tattoos of the company logo applied to their bodies. It's all about the tag, y'all.

After spending a few days with Kuxx, Sunday evening brought me the opportunity to see him in action, as he presented his regular Sunday evening "Sinday Social" slot on YFM. I'd listened to the station a lot during my travels in the week but Kuxx's mixes stood out from the rest, reminding me a lot of Gilles Peterson's global playlists. It's well worth a listen if you get the chance.

With the show over and the clock ticking over into the early hours of Monday morning, we hit the road again and headed well off the tourist trail, into the township of Tembisa.

Up to this point, I'd been aware of the fact that I was being taken to a few places that were off the beaten track but walking into this bar was most definitely a peak moment of this. Do you know that moment when a guy walks into a cowboy saloon and the music stops? Think along those lines and you'll be pretty close. For the first twenty minutes, all I was greeted with whenever I looked around the room was staring faces. After a while, a few people started approaching, with most asking pretty much the same question;

"Why are you here?"

"Well, I'm here with the DJ, Da Kruk."

"But why are you here?"

"I'm here to take some photos"

"But why are you here?"

"I'm beginning to ask myself that same question."

Knowing that events were out of my hands, I cracked on with it, chatting to people nearby, posing for a few selfies and even being taught a few dance moves by a top woman who clearly took me under her wing after appreciating how strange an experience it might be for me. By the time we left at 3am, I'd heard a few fascinating stories, met a few interesting characters and made vague promises to meet up with others if they ever came to London.

To take things down a notch, the next morning I headed to the hipster epicentre of Johannesburg; Maboneng. Like a decidedly warmer version of Hoxton, it's like a slice of east London has been airlifted to South Africa. Coffee shops and designer man-bag stores fill every lot, with street art tours taking in the sights and sounds of the area.

The one event that I was initially told about when planning this assignment was South Africa Fashion Week so I donned my most fashionable/least creased shirt and headed off to the opening show. Having shot a good quantity of Fashion Week events in London, it was quite a shock to find that each day only started at 6.30pm and included just four shows. After years of running around London, hunting for unique venues and off-piste presentations, it was a hugely relaxed affair to find it all under one roof. Having said that, it didn't stop the people there from running around, wildly barking orders at clipboard wielding PR girls in the usual fashion week manner. Nothing changes.

One thing that London Fashion Week never has is an African sunset so it was a huge pleasure to scoop up a few of the people loitering outside the venue for a set of portraits as the last light of the day faded away.

From the start of my planning, I knew that I wanted to look at the education system and, in particular, the schools which traditionally would have been a totally Caucasian affair. Having contacted a few with no luck, I decided that the one that I really wanted to get into was the King Edward VII school in Houghton. Emails, tweets and Facebook messages finally got my request in front of the right person and the all-clear was given just hours before the day I had kept free for the shoot.

With so much light in the sky from early in the morning, life in South Africa begins a little before I'm used to, with the school day beginning at a startling 7:30AM. Heading across the City, I arrived just as the bell rang and I made my way to the school office. Considering how little chance I would have to even get into a school in England, I braced myself for a lecture on child protection, areas I couldn't visit and a chaperone for the whole visit. The actual result? "Great to meet you. We're really glad you chose the school. Ask anyone you see if you need directions or help. Have fun!" With that, I was free for the whole day to explore and document this fantastic school.

One of my favourite locations for pictures throughout the day was the school tuck-shop. Like the view from the window of a time machine, during break and lunchtime, the uniformed students come rushing in the queue for jelly snakes and fizzy drinks. It was during the lunchtime rush that I caught what I think is one of my favourite shots of the whole assignment. As a group of children waited to be served, I noticed that a white boy was flanked by two black boys in the line, a half-eaten apple in one hand and a ten Rand note in the other, helping to "place" the photo. The sign of both races standing side by side in a queue, at a school for more privileged children certainly ticked the box for the brief.

Shortly after the school day finished, students and parents gathered at one of the sports fields as the "Reds", the school's First rugby team, were preparing to play. I'd been told earlier that there may be good pictures to be had during the traditional "War Cry", when students lock arms and welcome their team onto the pitch. However, it was just before this that I spotted a particular moment in the crowd. A student was sitting with his legs around a friend in front in such a way that really showed how little of an issue skin colour was to this new generation of South Africa. Another tick.

To round off my assignment, I headed over to Cape Town to see what I could find. As it happened, that morning President Zuma had fired a popular member of his Cabinet and carried out an unexpected re-shuffle. Coming at a time when his approval ratings are at a real low, the people were angry and I was able to catch a protest outside the Presidential palace. After decades of fighting the injustice of the Apartheid system, it's good to see that the political fight lives on but with a fresh focus.

Massive thanks must go to Kuxx, the Gillionaire and everyone else who offered tips, advice, help and guidance in how to approach this assignment.